The day of the Church

Plans work in mysterious ways... The plan today was to go to a little soap-factory and immerse self in local folklore. Immersion happened but had nothing to do with soaps and everything to do with an old church, which decided to let us in on some of its obvious, yet well-hidden secrets. But as the saying goes: who looks, will see. And see we did - symbols and signs from bygone era spoke to us in a language most incredible and left at least one of us - namely me - totally spellbound. This church really let us in... :)

Saaremaa with Friends

Second day in Saaremaa took us in many directions: from fishing villages to unearthed viking boats, Hereford cattle to watchtowers, old standing swings to junipers, but wherever we went, one things follows us around - the presence of the sea... This lovely little isle is full of character and dialects, myths and stories, but most importantly - of incredible hospitality and kindness, of which I was a most grateful recipient. The first bow of the day, as always, will go to Ave-Mai... :)

One place that needs to be visited even if you don't make it anywhere else, is Sõrve Säär, a long and stony peninsula, stretching far out to sea. A place where your cell phone will tell you that you have arrived in Latvia. Where the waves and calm waters meet. Where you can build your own special stone towers to accompany the many that are already there. And where you can feed self with local gifts from sea right by water's edge... NB! Presence of good company not mandatory but highly recommendable!

On your way back up the Sõrve Säär you will run into wonderful stony/sandy beaches, quaint homes and of course - windmills, lighthouses and other wonders.

One of the most wonderful marvels of Sõrve Säär is hidden in plain sight - a windmill, set up as a tiny hotel, complete with wonderful hosts (one of whom is a fabulous baker), first seat view on sunsets, hammock to lay in, and the smell of juniper, washing over you the moment you step into your home away from home. Mine for a week next summer - good plans are worth set in stone ahead of time. :)

Third leg of the Triple Treat - Kuressaare, Saaremaa

Have you ever felt that you just sat down and started talking, and suddenly you look at the time and 4 hours have passed? This is what happened today in a company of a kindred soul, Ave-Mai. Subjects were sprouting, one from another, morphing into yet another and leading to most incredible imaginary avenues one can dream of. A company of a person who stimulates your intellect and hugs your heart at the same time is truly a gift. May you have many of those.... And thank you, Maiu!:)

Triple Treat, Step Two: shrooming in Virumaa woods

There are some places where you feel immediately that you have landed on the pages of a book. Something gives it this particular flavor only a really good children's book can convey. It happened today. I arrived at Pipi Longstocking's place Villa Villekulla, complete with fourlegged buddies, acorns, colorful corners and wonderful sense of peaceful chaos. Only the horse was missing... But we made up for it. With ice cream.:)

And mushrooms. Which I helped to pick!!! I have not picked a mushroom in a longest time and can tell you with utmost certainty that I will not let another 20 years to pass by before doing that again. The smell of the woods, lovely chatter of my new buddy Sam, annoying consistency with which Nigel kept pointing at mushrooms I was about to step on, and the abundance of blueberries made it a trip to remember. The whole undertaking was sealed with mushroom sauce and fresh potatoes (created with loving care by Kati), with Nigel's jam cooking in the background, wrapping the entire house in most mouthwatering smell imaginable... Yet another Good Day.:)

Which cannot be Really good unless it includes some berries, flies and drunken looking cats. I am complete.:)

Triple Treat - Beginning in Rakvere

Mirjam works in mysterious ways and sometimes sHe brings out the best from the most unusual places. Like Rakvere, a little town in Estonia which I remember only by couple of random hairdressers and a possible café (if I remember it rightly). But now, having seen it through the eyes of a dear friend, I see its loveliness. May we all See through the eyes that see beauty :) 

Taevaskoja and other places

If someone will ever tell you that day and a half is not enough to see or enjoy anything, they are wrong! Eve and I got a late start on Friday, but nevertheless managed to drive through some magnificent old woods, stop at Helme ruins and sacrificial well (as in: drop your jewelry into well, wash your face and become forever young and pretty - not done and done, done :), visit a lovely village by the name of Cannabis (Kanepi), find the Taevaskoja Resort and take the last room available in three counties! :D

The stopping point was chosen specifically so that we could jump up the first thing in the morning and take off to Taevaskoja - a sandstone formation cradling the ancient Ahja river. Words are not enough for describing the beauty and magnificence of the 140 year old pine trees and evergreens, the smells of the woods and the mysterious feeling one gets when in caves and crevices chiseled into sandstone, by time and people alike...

...

And as any good journey will be really good only when closed with a grand meal - that's what we did! We drove through Tartu, the old university town in Southern Estonia, just in time for Hansa Days where, to my great delight, the streets were filled with artisans, music and food! We chose to dine in Gunpowder Cellar and ordered the house specialties - oversize muffins filled with seljanka - imagine that, you could actually eat your bowl.:) Eve finished with ice cream, I with fried Camembert drenched in cloudberry sauce. Final stop was at Pierre's Chocolaterie and the last taste we took home from that lovely journey was the decadent flavor of chilly truffles... Life is a Bloom! Even if you have only a day and a half...:)  

Random Wednesday in July

Is the truth universally acknowledged that when you have something wonderful to think about, the world turns to you its smiling face? If not, it should be... :)

And this kitty, is of course for you, Kai! This little mite was eyeballing a fly at the moment of this shot and no further pictures could be taken - kitty was jumping all over the window sill with a very murderous intent. May the fly rest in peace. :)

Soomaa trek with friends...

... human and canine alike. Much can happen on a journey such as this: photo opportunities on every bend, in and out of water; mud baths for puppies, pancakes for humans, chances to get lost and be found again and lots and lots of beautiful sights to be seen...

... in short - get out as much as you can, Nature has much to offer. And don't forget to bring friends... :)

In and around Tori Hell...

... with friends, horses, swallows and sunsets - life is a Bloom! :)

28 miles on the bike later...

The ride began rather innocently with an idea to ride couple of miles out of town. Couple became multiple and before I knew it I was heading towards Tori, 14 miles from Pärnu. The road was one of the most picturesque ones I have seen in Estonia and even though I have taken it many a time, I have never quite Seen it before - the benefits of rolling along 10 miles an hour... Old churches, houses with miniature lawns for roof, ancient relics were scattered along the roadside along with birds, bees and of course, the horses. The group above is curiously eyeballing a young foal who decided to take a nap in a broad daylight. Perhaps not in a most equestrian way. :) The weather was teasing me with both sun and clouds, and with gathering winds but allowed me to enter the village before taking on full force.

And the full force meant a torrent of rain! Which I greeted at Grandma's. She has been resting at Tori Cemetery since 1957, having left 12 years before I made my appearance. But I think she was there today - I could not find her grave and rather than pulling the bike along around the whole place, I left it standing. After 10 minutes of rigorous search I returned to the bike. And to her - I had left the bike right beside her place. She must have had a great sense of humor.:)
But never before have I made such a good use of an old chapel, currently used for storing rakes, shovels and similar. I sat on the only available chair, let the rain do the raining and had a little picnic of raisins and nuts, surrounded by broken buckets, pots and tools, and probably a ghost or two... :)

Once the day cleared, I headed out to Tori Hell - literal translation, describing the sandstone cliffs bordering the Pärnu river. This natural marvel has long been a place for youth to chisel their names into walls and swear the oaths of everlasting love, for swallows to make their homes into and for visitors to admire. Some caves have surely gotten a more practical use as well but ... Things happen. :)
As the sun had reappeared, I started my long trek back home. And now, 4 hours after arrival, I can almost feel my legs again. This was a Good Day. :)

Yet another summer day on the bike

Sometimes I really wonder why do people of Pärnu even bother with cars. Especially in the summertime. The town is so tiny that owning anything with an engine seems to be an excuse for laziness. Which I know is not the case. :) But still... Let me rephrase the writing on the wall: "Bike is the new drug. Let is spread!" And then we love, of course. :)

Meeting with a poppy... and a cat.:)

Sunset in Pärnu...

Back in Maarjamaa

We all know how wonderful it is to arrive, wherever that may be, into open arms of a smiling friend. But what is even better - two open arms and two shiny, smiley people! Add some fabulous wraps, cheese muffins, apple pie, smoked plaice and good conversation, and the bliss is complete. May you all have such arrivals, wherever your paths may lead!

Corfu Town

... greeted me with many colors, sounds and smells. And once again, much like Benitses, it greeted me with views!!! I think I will go and sit on the balcony now. If I am not back by Christmas, you know where to find me. :)

Corfiots call them "free cats"...

... we call them strays. I think I actually prefer the Corfu version, especially here, as the cats I have run into are totally lacking the homeless feel. The lovely tabby in the right middle shot, above the two lazing in the hay, was born with birth defects, she has no paws on 3 of her legs... Which does not stop her from playing step-mom to these two orange/white tabbies who materialized out of nowhere to Andromaches. Now they are all living there, belonging to no one but being fed and groomed by everyone. Corfiots consider the "free cats" to be almost like a trademark of the island, let's hope it keeps the felines knee deep in food and love. :)

Pélekas, Kerkira

Issos Beach

Today I did something for the first time in my life: I went out and rented me a scooter. By myself. Never rode anything like that, ever. Well, except for on a back seat but that is different. The first few kilometers were a bit wobbly until I noticed that my body kinda knows what to do if I let it. So I "let loose and let self" to handle the riding. Kinda like let go and let god. Perhaps it's even the same thing. :)
The major pro of a vehicle like this is it takes you to places you have no strength to reach by the bike (and considering the 40+C in the shade, it is Not a good idea to begin with, not for me anyway) and allows you to stop randomly in spots you cannot get to by car. So, I rode and stopped and snapped and stopped until I hit Issos. Why did I decide to take a breather there? Well, look above and tell me yourself! :) Love the lovely lovable loveliness of this isle...

The Magic of Greece

Today I made a contact with a local embodiment of the father of the Greek bride from "My Big Fat Greek Wedding". I was lazing on the beach, munching on cherries and wondering about a poor hermit crab who I had spooked after unsuspectingly grabbing hold of his home - silly me, I thought it was just a shell! :) He approached me with a big grin and broke into unpretentious conversation about the miracle of his skin (he had never used sunscreen) and the discriminating little fish who only nibble on females. The conversation took turns and lead to my confessing my profession. To which he said, "Ah! Medical translator. I see, I see. You know, in that case, you must know Greek. Because no medical translator in their right mind could forget that Everything medical comes from Greece. So there, do you speak Greek? Not even a little? That's a pity. But you are ok. Everybody who comes to Greece are ok. Good place, yes? Right, don't put that sunscreen in your mouth now, this is not for eating. Bye-bye." ... How could you not have a totally fantastic day after that? :D

This lovely spot was hiding at the road bend from Achillon to Benitses, waiting to treat me to cum-quat, a genuinely corfiot fruit, used in many ways - jams, liquors, perfumes, candy; and crystallized almonds that won my heart at the first bite. Main attraction was the alcohol, of course, of which there were so many varieties that my head was spinning. Finally, grabbed several bottles of booze (mainly variations of ouze or com-quat liquor, of course) for friends, box of sugary almonds for self, and headed down the winding road to my current home away from home, escorted by sounds that made me feel as if I was at a cicada pub an hour before closing time... This island is Magical. My heart sings here, together with intoxicated bugs. :)

Peek-a-boo, miss Kai...

... can you see me? :)

Day on the Aegean Sea

No words needed... :)

Welcome to Corfu

First day on this magical island and I am totally smitten! The air is full of exotic smells, roadsides are blooming in all colors of rainbow, sea is beckoning and the cicadas are singing so loud that you can hardly hear yourself think. Which, considering the serious over-activity going on in my brain, is heaven sent. :) And the totally laid back attitude of the locals makes you want to step on own brakes... "Oh, you have no casha? No problem, you bringa me thata tomorrow. Or later. No problem." No problem indeed, breathe, my friend. :)